Відео

Gello from Lithuania :D :)

Hello My friend that was Brilliant! Such a good set of shelves, inspiration to get my arse into gear and make some of my own. =D I really enjoy the mix of Metal and wood. =D

I opened the video feeling skeptical and ended it feeling optimistic. Best of luck to you both!

Freehand is the way to saw. Any junk saw with full chisel can mill. Here cedar, is common, Catalpa is best but hard to get. White oak and post oak are for fence corrals. Most everything that has lasted 30 years is sometimes luck, cca or creosote. Cedar 10 to 30 years but mostly 10. Steel T post is their replacement.

Hey brother. What are you using for brake fluid? Any issues?

I don't understand why you skimmed the wheel mounting face to have the wheel running parallel to the braking surface that the wheel don't care at all. You just assumed the hub mounting face (where the calipers are refenced to) is flat and not corroded and is mounted correctly in the lathe. Now you have a wheel that you're not sure is running true to the hub and is wobbling around.

That was a real help in building a potters weel driven by a washing maschine motor. Thank You so much for making this video available

I no longer use wedges, in large part because they tend to either lift the guide level, or like to fall out. Additionally, they need to be inserted from both sides of the log. To overcome these issues I have cut a large collection of slats the same thickness as the chainsaw kerf. I slide them in without undue pressure and they are wide enough to support all the way through.

Your so lucky to have a great woman to help out treat her fine

Excellent tips for chainsaw milling. Thank you for a great video without all the useless banter that happens to extend the video for monetization. Very interested in the book

trick for you - get a large plate magnet and put it in the spark path. While using a CBN wheel it is all metal particle debris and will be caught by the magnet. get one that will cover the majority of the palm of your hand.

Enjoyed your video and learned quite a few things ,I have a universal washing machine motor with 9 wires coming out,I have got a motor controller which is meant to control foward and reverse and speed ,the connection points are LABELLED K2-Reverse K1- Foward 0V S2 velocity feedback S1 Z2 Secondary Winding U2 Main winding N&L Supply Need help hooking this up to motor

Great Video. What do you do if the saw stops cutting but there's no logical reason as to why. New chain, nothing is binding the saw, plenty of bar oil. It just stops going past a certain point. I have noticed that the bar starts to rise a little in the cut, and then that's it. it won't go any further. I'm a new miller and this has happened 5 out of 6 cuts. the first cut with my rails was perfect. after that, i've had zero luck getting a full cut. See the call for help video in my channel.

Really helpful video, thank you!

Steel lasts how long…. Right then.

I wish i had all the skills you have. I've watched 3 videos on this machine so far, and this is amazing . I wish I had the skills and space to build a CNC mill of this size and capability. For a homemade machine, this thing is absolutely amazing.

Johnny's younger brother? Great video 👍

These videos are making me hot and bothered

That was a really good explanation of how the triac power control circuit works.

Another huge comment but I feel your pain here, I started with cnc diy retrofitting a brigeport interact1 devoid of electronics, and the lack of a enclosure and closeness to the tooling but with cnc speed after manual machines was scary, I did mist coolant but disliked the fog, fitted workshop extraction, then flood coolant with suds. Which without a enclosure meant getting covered with suds, waterproofing sensors/wiring etc. Missed steps drove me mad, but mine were the parallel port not being fast enough to keep up. A mesa FPGA motion controller fixed that as then the pc just fed the mesa the co-ordinates and offloaded dealing with motion to it. Also chip removal & packing in aluminium is a issue unless your stood there poised with hoover tube babying the part as youve found, and steel is even more dependant on cooling. I eventually made a telescopic thick perspex enclosure around the table itself but had to put lots of M00 in the gcode to come in and clean out the chips periodically. Also using the original machine spindle which was QC30 was a mistake, so I was the ATC watching for the toolchange dialog box to pop. I went to auto touchoff cycles working to a sensor on the bed so it touched off every tool on change and put the offsets in for a cut. Limited Z axis with the cnc quill but manual knee which to fix would mean bringing the knee under machine control & the complexity of a summing Z axis and controlling same in gcode. Without this when it came to using very mixed length tooling in a single program risked crashes with clamps etc and a permanent juggling act. I still use the bridgeport, occasionally with a rotary A axis made from a old lathe headstock mounted on the bed which is magic for cutting gears, yes it has inherent limitations & I boxed myself into several corners but really it was about learning and doing it all myself, which is fun and has a value you cant put a figure on. We're all just working on some bigger project ultimately, ourselves. For my limitations eventually the answer appeared on ebay, a Cincinatti Arrow 750 VMC for 500e, enclosure, 21 postion atc, pumped lube, suds, chip extraction auger, huge travel etc, all the things I ultimately wanted but didnt realize at the begining. Cheap because nobody else bid on it because it was so difficult to extract & absolutely had to be out by 2 days time but theres always a way when you are mad enough. For now it all just works and is lovely and can just rattle off hundreds of something unattended in that soul-less industrial metal machine eating way, but when it breaks expensively I'll retrofit it with linuxcnc using lessons from the bridgeport. Maybe make a diy trunnion table for it, turn it in to 5 axis. Whatever. I wont be scared to tinker and I dont have to worry about downtime not paying for it.

That mag chuck has probably spent its previous life on a wet surface grinder. The worktank fills with weird grey weakly magentic slime instead of dust being emitted and it gets everywhere, so its not surprising some made its way into the insides of the mag chuck. They can become demag'd too, I have a weak one on my SG that you have to be careful about how you block in things or they end up stuck in the wall behind the machine as it fires them off the chuck. Maybe I should strip it and see if its full of funk inside too. The tapped unpopulated holes should have another end fence with oval holes bolted via them, so you can raise the fence slightly above the chuck plane surface to act as a fence to setup from, and to help stop firing things off the end. Its easy to screw up using a mag chuck, he says remembering the time he put a tall block on and started grinding, only for it to tip because it wasn't blocked in vertically enough, and when it tips it becomes longer and doesnt fit between the chuck and wheel which pulls it in anyway. Causing your grinding wheel to explode, and sending abrasive projectiles round the shop (I have a heavy wheel guard fortunately) and necessitating a change of under clothing...

I know this is years later, but great job. Your off your shed, in a good way. I just started a plasma table build and screwed up and bought normal ballscrews and was wondering the best way to unscrew my design faux pas because of them whipping at plasma table rpm's, and found your vid on your rotating ball screw nuts & was working out how to make them in my homeshop from junk and I have done some diy casting and know how frustrating it can be at times. Then realized the same thing about the ballscrew pitch being too fine for rapids. Rather than find the right pitch screws like you did, I've just gone to a rack and pinion setup because its just for plasma. On the plus side for unconventionality, for a table frame I'm using a old JCB 3c digger/backhoe chassis turned upside down. Rigidity isn't a issue :) Curious why you used vb for the atc code etc, I just tend to use linuxcnc for everything cnc as its easy to dig round inside, although it tends to be crusty old grumpy people on their forums, they know their stuff if you develop suitably thick skin, but hey, you've been on the 'zone, you have that off pat I'm sure :) You can get structural adhesive from BA or 3M that's (relatively) reasonably priced (for structural adhesive) for potting surfaces together, although I'm sure your diy epoxy grout worked great. I built a dragbike and rather than weld on the crankcases and risk distortion to critical dimensions, I bonded in stiffeners with it. Its designed to glue airplane wings together, so more bond area the better, but it strong stuff.

After sampling a large amount of metal casting videos it is apparent that this video despite trying to appear as very knowledgeable contains several major flaws and instructs on using flawed and erroneous methodology and very bad habits that will result in a lot of lost effort and lost work. This leads to loss of resources and inferior outputs. It is adviseable to seek out other videos for 'lost foam casting' that actually offer solid advise and lead to superior methodology and superior output for your invested efforts. For example it is always best to truly compact fine grained *DRY* sand as tightly as possible. The lost foam or plastic model needs a proper coating layer so that the sand does not touch the actual model and which allows gases to escape at right speed. With proper methodology as found elsewhere you can achieve great castings with superior surface and easier work methods than offered here. The headline of the video that promises "good" casts is flawed and should be changed to "mediocre" or "inferior". An updated video ought to be produced and this video should be titled as "obsolete" in view of superior instruction that was already widely available at the time of publishing.

Doee it have a compressor

Hi friend 10

What are folks' thoughts/experience with Secure Set (or similar) post-setting foam? I've used it to good effect but wonder if there are downsides. Thanks!

Support your channel ,from indonesia mr 😂😂❤❤

Super rigid cnc mr,amazing your project 😂😂😂❤

Thank you for sharing great video. Can you tell where you bout a schema of digger. I just get 3CX 87 and can´t find any. Thank you again

My only chainsaw injury so far was having ripped some slabs in a sycamore trunk (lying on the ground) by cutting vertically I proceeded to cut them free from the branching end and they fell over onto my shin!

Wow Very old model JCB Machine Very Good Condition 👍 I Subscribe to your channel And 👍 V Kar diya hai

I learned some new things! Thank you very much!

I sharpen chains like this in a cedar shingle saw mill. I was not trained on how to do it so I appreciate this video. Thanks.

Another tip , never sharpen your chainsaw on a open oak log. it will leave black spots all over it . 2. After a cut , take the saw out and give it a few revs , it will reoil the bar and get rid of all the extra sawdust in the grove. 3. Check the rakers on the chain , that will make a big difference from dust to small chips of wood. always use a gage for this.\ 4. check your bar (if long one) from the tip down wile on the ladder ... if the saw is heavy and not set correctly it might have a bend in the bar. 5. if the log is big , use the ladder closest to the chainsaw , so you control and see the cut , if it lifts of the ladder or not. And many others ... GOOD LUCK

3:14 use a socket to go over it when you squeeze it

Wow nice

No words to described how impress I'm, thanks for sharing.

I liked the tip nr. 9 the most! But actually all of them were really great! Thank you!

When I saw the cement water trough, wondered if cement works as a fence post also.

Can the shaft seal be installed in the "wrong" way, not sure if I got it right as it was quite hard to put it in

take the key out of the chuck!

wow thank you, how is it holding up.

Amazing tutorial !!! Love it man!

Front bucket is just wider than the axles, allowing uou scrape right alongside a wall. The top plate of the front bucket is parallel with the botom floor of tbe bucket. So you know whether the bucket is level.

Hi can I ask what would you do with a bit of pine that’s bent warped and bowed in one bit 2.4 long

No, we can't. There... saved you half an hour. ;-)

I so wish UA-cam had more stuff like this.

I salute your dedication to factoring in COST to the environment, and not just one's own pocket. If the world at large thought like you, the future would be brighter. Power to your elbows! You are a rare treasure. ❤️

Congratulation to You. This is a sensational video about the iconic Jcb3cx blackhoe loader.

Good video… keep at it